We arrived safely in Wroclaw – a 6 hour train journey from Gdansk. Nice day just sitting on the train reading our kindles and enjoying the Polish countryside. Mostly flat farmland – ploughed fields and crops, the odd village inbetween busier towns, industrial areas and train stations. We are staying in a lovely small boutique hostel called St Dorothy’s – near the Wroclaw city centre and main square. Wroclaw is a bigger city than Gdansk – the main square area is quite large. There’s also a greater feeling of affluence here. Things seem tidier and overall better maintained. But having said that there’s lots of upgrading happening in Gdansk – scaffolding on buildings, re-cobbling of streets. Although still considered a poorer country Poland is starting to blossom – tourists are discovering its treasures and new businesses are coming here all the time. It will be interesting to see this country in another decade.
We have done lots of walking since we have arrived in Wroclaw – very normal for us. We like to wander and just absorb – check out the architecture, watch people go by, taste the local food. The main square is really quite beautiful. The buildings surrounding it are a mixture of original and those reconstructed after World War 2. There was only one stretch of houses – on the west side of the square – that remained standing after the war. There was the odd other building that was salvageable but most were reduced to rubble. Wroclaw was decimated – as were many Polish cities. We took a “walking tour” that focused on the history of the war and the local Jewish people. We had a great guide named Lucas – a bit of an comedian – kept us entertained! He took us to some “out of the way” places – old streets that were once important in the life of the city – now a little worse for wear, little pockets of interest in the Jewish Quarter. We checked out the old Jewish Hospital near the boundary of the old original city – it still has cannonballs wedged in its front wall! A gift from the invading Napoleon Army in 1807. Wroclaw has an amazing history of being occupied by neighbouring countries. Before World War 2 it was a German city with a predominately German population. After World War 2 it became a part of Poland again – after a 600 year gap – and the German people were forced to leave. Polish people came from all over to resettled the city – some of the buildings, monuments, signs etc that looked “too German” were destroyed. Things have moved on. Lucas talked about new attitudes and a greater level of tolerance and inclusion. Wroclaw is now a bustling multi-cultural city that has a large student population and a thriving business sector. People are now looking to the future. Lucas touched briefly on the effects of Communism and the rise of the Solidarity movement in Poland – but they were for another day. You can only do so much!
We headed off on our own one morning to check out Ostrow Tumski (Cathedral Island) – just north of the main city centre. Wroclow has heaps of bridges and islands – mostly due to the River Odra. Makes it very picturesque. Cathedral Island – in particular the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist – is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese in Wroclaw – established in the year 1000. We enjoying just wandering along. The river and waterways were lovely. Lots of historical buildings and landmarks, Roman Catholic history – the Archbishop′s palace, an orphanage for children of noble birth, other little chapels and churches. All well maintained – quite flash really. Worth the visit.
Both our walking tour with Lucas and our visit to Cathedral Island came together when we visited the Royal Palace/History Museum. Great displays going back to the 900’s – following all the invasions and change of rulers/governments/identity. The influence of the Roman Catholic Church was wound into the story – such an important part of Polish history. There were also some excellent displays depicting life in the building when it was used as a Royal Palace – 17th to the 20th centuries. It was a great way to finish our stay.
Off to Krakow on the bus tomorrow – quiet afternoon today.
Love
Di and Reg
PS There is a very special Wroclaw donut shop “Paczkarnia” just around the corner. Always a line up at the counter – including us. Need some extra walking to work off the calories!
This entry was posted in Europe, Poland